Perspective said:The houses on Copper Mine are fully framed - should be complete by the end of the year.
Looks good Perspective --- Also looks like all the houses on the IUSD side of Stage coach are almost complete.
Perspective said:The houses on Copper Mine are fully framed - should be complete by the end of the year.
Perspective said:Looks like IP's hardwood flooring quote for us is ~50% higher than an after-COE quote. This board had me concerned it might be closer to a 100% markup. Now we'll have to decide what portion of flooring, if any, we'll do after COE.
Perspective said:Looks like IP's hardwood flooring quote for us is ~50% higher than an after-COE quote. This board had me concerned it might be closer to a 100% markup. Now we'll have to decide what portion of flooring, if any, we'll do after COE.
Perspective said:Looks like IP's hardwood flooring quote for us is ~50% higher than an after-COE quote. This board had me concerned it might be closer to a 100% markup. Now we'll have to decide what portion of flooring, if any, we'll do after COE.
Are you building a structure to your home like a CA room? If so it takes 3-4 weeks for HOA to approve. But if it's a simple plan then less. What got me was the fees, $200 for the front, $200 for the back, and $300 for any architectural change + the $500 deposit. Also, if you do an architectural change then you also have to pay the city for a permit and wait about a month and half for that. Just pray that your landscaper submits very detailed plans to the HOA, they are very detailed oriented.ariesinapril said:We submitted the landscape plan to HOA last week. We just received a letter yesterday from HOA; informing that its takes up to 45 days to get approval from the architectural committee -- due to many submissions!
Anybody on this board got the HOA approval recently; and what is your experience? Thanks
Changer said:For the flooring, I'd like input on my logic. The assumption is you take a 30 year loan and the builder flooring is 50% higher then COE option that you must pay upon job completion. If I sell the house in 15 years, then I essentially only paid for 50% of the flooring (not exactly, but roughly speaking). I will also receive incremental profit on the price of the flooring if my house sells for more than I paid for it. So why not go with the builder for the scenario I describe? Essentially, I did not have to pay for the builder premium and have a chance to make some extra profit.
Changer said:For the flooring, I'd like input on my logic. The assumption is you take a 30 year loan and the builder flooring is 50% higher then COE option that you must pay upon job completion. If I sell the house in 15 years, then I essentially only paid for 50% of the flooring (not exactly, but roughly speaking). I will also receive incremental profit on the price of the flooring if my house sells for more than I paid for it. So why not go with the builder for the scenario I describe? Essentially, I did not have to pay for the builder premium and have a chance to make some extra profit.
Changer said:For the flooring, I'd like input on my logic. The assumption is you take a 30 year loan and the builder flooring is 50% higher then COE option that you must pay upon job completion. If I sell the house in 15 years, then I essentially only paid for 50% of the flooring (not exactly, but roughly speaking). I will also receive incremental profit on the price of the flooring if my house sells for more than I paid for it. So why not go with the builder for the scenario I describe? Essentially, I did not have to pay for the builder premium and have a chance to make some extra profit.
Won't you still make that no matter who you go with for flooring?Changer said:So assuming flooring upgrade is $50K, then I will pay Irvine $500/yr. I'll accept the 1% luxury tax to potentially make 5% ROI.
Changer said:So assuming flooring upgrade is $50K, then I will pay Irvine $500/yr. I'll accept the 1% luxury tax to potentially make 5% ROI.
irvinehomeowner said:Won't you still make that no matter who you go with for flooring?
8porkchop said:Thanks Patrione, but I have a modem wifi combo. Moving this shouldn't effect my tv signal? Is it a different line?Patriotone said:8porkchop said:Thanks for the heads up Aquabliss. I too have a plan 2 and I get no signal in the 1st floor bedroom. I thought about extenders but I have heard that they don't work too well. So you're telling me this extender from Costco works well by leaving it in the loft? I was just thinking about doing a hard wire but can't seem to find the proper cable upstairs.Perspective said:TJinOH said:One note to all plan 2 buyers (just realized this today)
Make sure to include internet access port in the first floor bedroom for plan 2.
This port does not come standard and is an add-on option.
I thought I wouldn't need it because of wifi access, but for some reason this first floor bedroom simply cannot get signal.
The coax comes in at the master closet, so I have the router setup in there.
I have a pretty new 802.11ac router with excellent range. The smart TV and ipad access in the kitchen and great room (even backyard) are all excellent for streaming up to 4K. I have 100mb from cox and the wifi speed test in the great room gets about 35mb download (107mb wired).
But I think the downstairs bedroom, which I'm now setting up as a home office just has too many bends. I get 2mb at best. And that's after I setup an access point downstairs at the great room. $100 range extenders don't do much at all.
The only solution I have is to actually run a wire down to the room and setup the access point there.
So make sure you opt for that extra internet port.
Is this a Plan 2 issue, or has Irvine Pacific changed this since your phase? I just checked our standard electric diagram for a Plan 3 to confirm my initial thought, and Cat 5 data ports are included in all four bedrooms, the loft, and great room.
There are a multitude of extenders and access points on the market, so a little research will do you well. Also, you could always move your router from the master closet to any of the more central rooms. All you have to do is plug the modem output into the blue Ethernet cable for the room you want to setup your router.