Cypress Village - Options

NEW -> Contingent Buyer Assistance Program
Chairman said:
Goriot said:
Chairman said:
bones said:
Chairman said:
Here is my current thinking. I will go with IP's tiling in the bathrooms so no plumbing warranties are voided. I will also go with their counter tops in the kitchen, master, butler's pantry, and possibly 2nd bathroom (still dwelling on this one


Good decision. We had a water leak in our powder room 3 years after close of escrow that damaged all the flooring and some baseboards. Since I got everything done through the builder, they paid for the entire cost of the fix. I was able to choose my own contractor.

Bones,

I am having a tough time deciding whether or not to use the builder for flooring or go with outside contractor. The price difference is so great. I haven't hit that stage in my process yet but everything I have read and heard is bracing me for that moment. :P

In your case it worked out well so I'm sure you would recommend going with the builder. Sigh... this whole process is just a money pit. You all remember that Tom Hanks classic?

I am going with a outside contractor on the flooring.  $10k difference just on the flooring is too much to pass on.

Hi Goriot,

If you don't mind sharing, how much did Irvine Pacific (?) quote you on flooring through the design center? I am assuming you bought from IP, if not which community did you buy in and what year was this? Thanks.

Chairman,

I decided on the Provenza Old World Warm Sands that was in one of the model homes.  IP quoted $15 ~ $16 per sqft.  I can get it installed from a reputable contractor for $9 ~ $9.5 per sqft. 
I bought in Mendocino SG.  Closing soon.

Flooring is relatively easy and straight forward to install so can't go too wrong with a reputable installer.

I upgraded kitchen counter top and back splash through IP though.  Didn't want a mess/headache in the kitchen later as. I have appliances and plumbing from IP. 
 
Goriot said:
I decided on the Provenza Old World Warm Sands that was in one of the model homes.  IP quoted $15 ~ $16 per sqft.  I can get it installed from a reputable contractor for $9 ~ $9.5 per sqft. 
I bought in Mendocino SG.  Closing soon.

Flooring is relatively easy and straight forward to install so can't go too wrong with a reputable installer.

I upgraded kitchen counter top and back splash through IP though.  Didn't want a mess/headache in the kitchen later as. I have appliances and plumbing from IP.
Provenza is awesome stuff, pricey, but worth it IMHO.  I agree hat flooring is easy to replace after COE with a couple of caveats.  A built-in fridge and large free standing ranges are a PIA to move and very easy to scratch the floor when moving back in.  A good installer should be able to do this no prob, but those 48" and above ranges are unwieldy.  The built-in fridge is more problematic as they are bolted in with trim already in place. 
 
bones said:
Chairman said:
Thoughts on this wood flooring with white shaker cabinets and caesarstone carrera countertop vs a darker rustic wood floor?

Chairman - do you have kids or pets?  Initially we were going to go with a dark wood floor but then realized that with kids and a dog, it's going to look abused since scratches show much more clearly on dark wood.  We ended up with a medium tone that was slightly distressed to hide scratches.  FWIW: I prefer the 2nd link.  I like brown tone versus gray tone.

I am currently kidless :D
 
Goriot said:
Chairman said:
Goriot said:
Chairman said:
bones said:
Chairman said:
Here is my current thinking. I will go with IP's tiling in the bathrooms so no plumbing warranties are voided. I will also go with their counter tops in the kitchen, master, butler's pantry, and possibly 2nd bathroom (still dwelling on this one


Good decision. We had a water leak in our powder room 3 years after close of escrow that damaged all the flooring and some baseboards. Since I got everything done through the builder, they paid for the entire cost of the fix. I was able to choose my own contractor.

Bones,

I am having a tough time deciding whether or not to use the builder for flooring or go with outside contractor. The price difference is so great. I haven't hit that stage in my process yet but everything I have read and heard is bracing me for that moment. :P

In your case it worked out well so I'm sure you would recommend going with the builder. Sigh... this whole process is just a money pit. You all remember that Tom Hanks classic?

I am going with a outside contractor on the flooring.  $10k difference just on the flooring is too much to pass on.

Hi Goriot,

If you don't mind sharing, how much did Irvine Pacific (?) quote you on flooring through the design center? I am assuming you bought from IP, if not which community did you buy in and what year was this? Thanks.

Chairman,

I decided on the Provenza Old World Warm Sands that was in one of the model homes.  IP quoted $15 ~ $16 per sqft.  I can get it installed from a reputable contractor for $9 ~ $9.5 per sqft. 
I bought in Mendocino SG.  Closing soon.

Flooring is relatively easy and straight forward to install so can't go too wrong with a reputable installer.

I upgraded kitchen counter top and back splash through IP though.  Didn't want a mess/headache in the kitchen later as. I have appliances and plumbing from IP.

Thanks for sharing, Goriot and congrats on your new home. Did the design center try to talk you out of going outside for flooring? Did you see if they would try to price match at all? They made it sound that if you went to a reputable outside retailer that their pricing would be close to fair. A 8-10 grand difference is a huge disparity. Maybe they are being disingenuous or need a reality check. Mind sharing who your contractor was and if you would recommend them? I have seen referrals for Venetian but have not asked for a quote yet.

Agree with you on the kitchen counter and back splash. I will go through them as well.

Just googled your Provenza Old World Warm Sands and it looks amazing. What color are your cabinets?
 
OCgasman said:
Goriot said:
I decided on the Provenza Old World Warm Sands that was in one of the model homes.  IP quoted $15 ~ $16 per sqft.  I can get it installed from a reputable contractor for $9 ~ $9.5 per sqft. 
I bought in Mendocino SG.  Closing soon.

Flooring is relatively easy and straight forward to install so can't go too wrong with a reputable installer.

I upgraded kitchen counter top and back splash through IP though.  Didn't want a mess/headache in the kitchen later as. I have appliances and plumbing from IP.
Provenza is awesome stuff, pricey, but worth it IMHO.  I agree hat flooring is easy to replace after COE with a couple of caveats.  A built-in fridge and large free standing ranges are a PIA to move and very easy to scratch the floor when moving back in.  A good installer should be able to do this no prob, but those 48" and above ranges are unwieldy.  The built-in fridge is more problematic as they are bolted in with trim already in place.

I won't have a fridge so I will only have to move the stove out... any risk of warranty being invalidated there?
 
Chairman said:
OCgasman said:
Goriot said:
I decided on the Provenza Old World Warm Sands that was in one of the model homes.  IP quoted $15 ~ $16 per sqft.  I can get it installed from a reputable contractor for $9 ~ $9.5 per sqft. 
I bought in Mendocino SG.  Closing soon.

Flooring is relatively easy and straight forward to install so can't go too wrong with a reputable installer.

I upgraded kitchen counter top and back splash through IP though.  Didn't want a mess/headache in the kitchen later as. I have appliances and plumbing from IP.
Provenza is awesome stuff, pricey, but worth it IMHO.  I agree hat flooring is easy to replace after COE with a couple of caveats.  A built-in fridge and large free standing ranges are a PIA to move and very easy to scratch the floor when moving back in.  A good installer should be able to do this no prob, but those 48" and above ranges are unwieldy.  The built-in fridge is more problematic as they are bolted in with trim already in place.

I won't have a fridge so I will only have to move the stove out... any risk of warranty being invalidated there?
You won't move it, your flooring installer will move the range.  They do it all the time, I wouldn't worry.  All they do is turn off the gas, take off the hub and then connect the hub when moving it back in.  Easy peasy.  Just check your flooring carefully in front of the range to make sure they didn't scratch it moving it back in.
 
Tyler Durden said:
The place you want to "invest" is your bathrooms and kitchen.  You'll get positive value back from these upon re-sale. 

When it comes to bathrooms, the order i would go: spend on the master, then the primary one that guests use... since that's what people see.  From there, go based on what you're comfortable spending on...

Since counter tops are very noticeable and there is variation in materials (e.g. slabs, etc), i'd probably do them all and then opt to re-do the showers / tubs later if it came down to picking one vs. the other.

You could also go with the standard tile and do a "band" or ribbon around it to save money in the showers / tubs, as opposed to going full bore.

I tried to put in Caesarstone counter-tops for my master bath without touching the tub deck top.  My caesarstone was going to be somewhat white anyway.  IP wouldn't let me.  They advised against it and said the marble bath tub deck will be an eyesore with a caesarstone counter top, since it will be two different slab materials.  But I wasn't about to pay $2600 to change the tub deck to Caesarstone.

Has anyone else run into this kind of problem at the Design Center?
 
Hi ZeroLot,

I would agree with either using the same material for sink counter and bathtub or just sink counter and nothing on the bathtub. Last thing you would want is mismatched counters. IMO that would look off. If you just tile the bathtub it actually looks clean and more contemporary versus the countertop on the slab which is a more traditional look.
 
Chairman said:
Hi ZeroLot,

I would agree with either using the same material for sink counter and bathtub or just sink counter and nothing on the bathtub. Last thing you would want is mismatched counters. IMO that would look off. If you just tile the bathtub it actually looks clean and more contemporary versus the countertop on the slab which is a more traditional look.

Well the marble tub deck is standard.  The rest of the tub is tile.  I only wanted to upgrade the sink counter top to Caesarstone.  Originally the sink counter top was white cultured marble as well.
 
I called Caesarstone US and they said they do not recommend that I install a Caesarstone tub deck that will be partly enclosed in the glass shower stall.  Caesarstone is not meant to handle that kind of moisture, humidity, and PH from the soap and residue that is caused by steam from a shower.  The rep said that Caesarstone will discolor and that damage is permanent.

They said if I was going to install it that I should not place any bottles on the stone AND that I should dry the slab off immediately to remove all moisture after every shower.

So for anyone thinking about Caesarstone on a bath tub deck that's partly enclosed in the shower ... it's not a good idea.
 
ZeroLot said:
I called Caesarstone US and they said they do not recommend that I install a Caesarstone tub deck that will be partly enclosed in the glass shower stall.  Caesarstone is not meant to handle that kind of moisture, humidity, and PH from the soap and residue that is caused by steam from a shower.  The rep said that Caesarstone will discolor and that damage is permanent.

They said if I was going to install it that I should not place any bottles on the stone AND that I should dry the slab off immediately to remove all moisture after every shower.

So for anyone thinking about Caesarstone on a bath tub deck that's partly enclosed in the shower ... it's not a good idea.

ZeroLot,

I had already opted to not get the caesarstone countertop on my tub deck. But more from a design and visual rationale. My tub countertop also penetrates the shower slightly. Thank you for sharing that valuable bit of information.
 
Well in a sense, quartz can handle it.  It won't crack or chip or be damaged physically.  But the process in which the quartz goes through to gain that color/pattern ... that's the part that will discolor.

The example the rep gave is that if I chose a dark colored Caesarstone, then the color will become lighter to the point of it turning white. 

So I guess if I chose an all-white Caesarstone, like Blizzard then it will remain white??
 
Chairman said:
ZeroLot,

I had already opted to not get the caesarstone countertop on my tub deck. But more from a design and visual rationale. My tub countertop also penetrates the shower slightly. Thank you for sharing that valuable bit of information.

@Chairman - Did you upgrade the master bathroom countertop?  Or did you leave that standard as well?
 
irvinehomeowner said:
So wouldn't Caesarstone not hold up on bath counter?

All of PP will have a Caesarstone/EStone-gate in a few years.

Bath counter is fine because it's not constantly being drenched in hot water and soap, like inside the shower stall. 
 
ZeroLot said:
Chairman said:
ZeroLot,

I had already opted to not get the caesarstone countertop on my tub deck. But more from a design and visual rationale. My tub countertop also penetrates the shower slightly. Thank you for sharing that valuable bit of information.

@Chairman - Did you upgrade the master bathroom countertop?  Or did you leave that standard as well?

Aye. I am doing Caesarstone on the masterbath sinks. :)
 
Looking for advice from you all.

What are your thoughts on upgrading the secondary bathroom countertop to match the kitchen and master bath? Is it worth it to upgrade up front or just leave it as it is? It has kind of been bothering me as I go back and forth in my decision making. I keep thinking I am already spending all this money might as well just spend another 2 grand and get it done as well. But then my property tax bill goes up a little bit more. :(

Also I decided to not get any of the mirrors framed and just go standard for a more cleaner look. Again, I kind of go back and forth on whether it will look cheap or not but I also think if I save the money now, I can always have more options with frames to get it done after.

Thanks for your help.
 
Back
Top