graceomalley
New member
How do you transition from one material to another when tiles and mortar is thicker than the wood planks. An ugly rubber threshold would down graded your montecito home to an IAC apartment spec level?
Purchasing upgrades on a new built home.
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[quote author="graceomalley"]How do you transition from one material to another when tiles and mortar is thicker than the wood planks. An ugly rubber threshold would down graded your montecito home to an IAC apartment spec level?[/quote]
BK thanks for pointing this out. I see what you mean by transitionThat was our original plan, tile in power, laundry and carpet in dan. In our appointment today we are now thinking about just use bigger Porcelin Tile lay diagonally through out the first floor to save a few dollars. We are not sure what to do yet.
BK thanks for pointing this out. I see what you mean by transitionThat was our original plan, tile in power, laundry and carpet in dan. In our appointment today we are now thinking about just use bigger Porcelin Tile lay diagonally through out the first floor to save a few dollars. We are not sure what to do yet.
usctrojancpa
Well-known member
[quote author="fe9000"]
[quote author="graceomalley"]How do you transition from one material to another when tiles and mortar is thicker than the wood planks. An ugly rubber threshold would down graded your montecito home to an IAC apartment spec level?[/quote]
BK thanks for pointing this out. I see what you mean by transitionThat was our original plan, tile in power, laundry and carpet in dan. In our appointment today we are now thinking about just use bigger Porcelin Tile lay diagonally through out the first floor to save a few dollars. We are not sure what to do yet.[/quote]
Remember for tile flooring you'll pay about $3/sf for install plus the cost of the tile and you'll pay about $3-$4/sf for install of engineering hardwood plus the cost of the wood. Use those as your benchmarks when dealing with the design center.
[quote author="graceomalley"]How do you transition from one material to another when tiles and mortar is thicker than the wood planks. An ugly rubber threshold would down graded your montecito home to an IAC apartment spec level?[/quote]
BK thanks for pointing this out. I see what you mean by transitionThat was our original plan, tile in power, laundry and carpet in dan. In our appointment today we are now thinking about just use bigger Porcelin Tile lay diagonally through out the first floor to save a few dollars. We are not sure what to do yet.[/quote]
Remember for tile flooring you'll pay about $3/sf for install plus the cost of the tile and you'll pay about $3-$4/sf for install of engineering hardwood plus the cost of the wood. Use those as your benchmarks when dealing with the design center.
ajw522
Active member
[quote author="fe9000"]
[quote author="graceomalley"]How do you transition from one material to another when tiles and mortar is thicker than the wood planks. An ugly rubber threshold would down graded your montecito home to an IAC apartment spec level?[/quote]
BK thanks for pointing this out. I see what you mean by transitionThat was our original plan, tile in power, laundry and carpet in dan. In our appointment today we are now thinking about just use bigger Porcelin Tile lay diagonally through out the first floor to save a few dollars. We are not sure what to do yet.[/quote]
Hmmm - I have seen people have different flooring with wood in some areas and carpet or tile in others - it didn't seem that bad. I was planning on having the tile in the entry foyer and powder, carpet in the Den and Study, and Wood flooring throughout the Great Room and Kitchen. You don't think that would work well? (Plan 1 Montecito, by the way)
[quote author="graceomalley"]How do you transition from one material to another when tiles and mortar is thicker than the wood planks. An ugly rubber threshold would down graded your montecito home to an IAC apartment spec level?[/quote]
BK thanks for pointing this out. I see what you mean by transitionThat was our original plan, tile in power, laundry and carpet in dan. In our appointment today we are now thinking about just use bigger Porcelin Tile lay diagonally through out the first floor to save a few dollars. We are not sure what to do yet.[/quote]
Hmmm - I have seen people have different flooring with wood in some areas and carpet or tile in others - it didn't seem that bad. I was planning on having the tile in the entry foyer and powder, carpet in the Den and Study, and Wood flooring throughout the Great Room and Kitchen. You don't think that would work well? (Plan 1 Montecito, by the way)
[quote author="ajw522"]
[quote author="fe9000"]
BK thanks for pointing this out. I see what you mean by transitionThat was our original plan, tile in power, laundry and carpet in dan. In our appointment today we are now thinking about just use bigger Porcelin Tile lay diagonally through out the first floor to save a few dollars. We are not sure what to do yet.[/quote]
Hmmm - I have seen people have different flooring with wood in some areas and carpet or tile in others - it didn't seem that bad. I was planning on having the tile in the entry foyer and powder, carpet in the Den and Study, and Wood flooring throughout the Great Room and Kitchen. You don't think that would work well? (Plan 1 Montecito, by the way)[/quote]
Almost the same for us, expect we were going to have wood in the Study also. Tile in the entry foyer and powder and carpet in the den.
[quote author="fe9000"]
BK thanks for pointing this out. I see what you mean by transitionThat was our original plan, tile in power, laundry and carpet in dan. In our appointment today we are now thinking about just use bigger Porcelin Tile lay diagonally through out the first floor to save a few dollars. We are not sure what to do yet.[/quote]
Hmmm - I have seen people have different flooring with wood in some areas and carpet or tile in others - it didn't seem that bad. I was planning on having the tile in the entry foyer and powder, carpet in the Den and Study, and Wood flooring throughout the Great Room and Kitchen. You don't think that would work well? (Plan 1 Montecito, by the way)[/quote]
Almost the same for us, expect we were going to have wood in the Study also. Tile in the entry foyer and powder and carpet in the den.
[quote author="USCTrojanCPA"]
[quote author="fe9000"]
BK thanks for pointing this out. I see what you mean by transitionThat was our original plan, tile in power, laundry and carpet in dan. In our appointment today we are now thinking about just use bigger Porcelin Tile lay diagonally through out the first floor to save a few dollars. We are not sure what to do yet.[/quote]
Remember for tile flooring you'll pay about $3/sf for install plus the cost of the tile and you'll pay about $3-$4/sf for install of engineering hardwood plus the cost of the wood. Use those as your benchmarks when dealing with the design center.[/quote]
So what would be the price per SQFT including material? About 7 to 9 per SQFT?
[quote author="fe9000"]
BK thanks for pointing this out. I see what you mean by transitionThat was our original plan, tile in power, laundry and carpet in dan. In our appointment today we are now thinking about just use bigger Porcelin Tile lay diagonally through out the first floor to save a few dollars. We are not sure what to do yet.[/quote]
Remember for tile flooring you'll pay about $3/sf for install plus the cost of the tile and you'll pay about $3-$4/sf for install of engineering hardwood plus the cost of the wood. Use those as your benchmarks when dealing with the design center.[/quote]
So what would be the price per SQFT including material? About 7 to 9 per SQFT?
usctrojancpa
Well-known member
[quote author="fe9000"]
[quote author="USCTrojanCPA"]
Remember for tile flooring you'll pay about $3/sf for install plus the cost of the tile and you'll pay about $3-$4/sf for install of engineering hardwood plus the cost of the wood. Use those as your benchmarks when dealing with the design center.[/quote]
So what would be the price per SQFT including material? About 7 to 9 per SQFT?[/quote]
Depends on the what material you pick out. Engineering wood flooring will run you from about $3/sf at the low end to over $10/sf for the super nice stuff. Tiles will run around $1/sf at the low end to about $8/sf for the super nice stuff. There's a little more labor involved with installing glue-down wood flooring than there is installing tile flooring. Also, ensure that they install the baseboards last so it is ON TOP of the flooring. They'll rip you off on baseboards, you can get really nice 5"+ baseboards for about $.80/linear foot at World of Moldings in Santa Ana. Baseboard installation is fairly quick and easy.
[quote author="USCTrojanCPA"]
Remember for tile flooring you'll pay about $3/sf for install plus the cost of the tile and you'll pay about $3-$4/sf for install of engineering hardwood plus the cost of the wood. Use those as your benchmarks when dealing with the design center.[/quote]
So what would be the price per SQFT including material? About 7 to 9 per SQFT?[/quote]
Depends on the what material you pick out. Engineering wood flooring will run you from about $3/sf at the low end to over $10/sf for the super nice stuff. Tiles will run around $1/sf at the low end to about $8/sf for the super nice stuff. There's a little more labor involved with installing glue-down wood flooring than there is installing tile flooring. Also, ensure that they install the baseboards last so it is ON TOP of the flooring. They'll rip you off on baseboards, you can get really nice 5"+ baseboards for about $.80/linear foot at World of Moldings in Santa Ana. Baseboard installation is fairly quick and easy.
irvinehomeowner
Well-known member
The only thing I would be worried about is the transition from wood to tile. In most model homes they don't use a T-bar so it looks better -- but in most home installations... I've seen the T-bar and that doesn't even address what BK mentioned about different thicknesses.
I can understand wanting to do wood throughout... but I am always hesitant to put real wood in wet areas like the kitchen... especially where pots, knives and plates can be dropped and may cause damage to the floor. But the problem with the Great Room is there isn't a good way to transition between the two areas.
I still think flooring is cheaper outside... and if you're not worried about the toilet thing, you can always just do carpet in the foyer+powder and then do a nicer hard surface after close of escrow. It's cheaper to rip out carpet than it is to demo builder spec tile.
I can understand wanting to do wood throughout... but I am always hesitant to put real wood in wet areas like the kitchen... especially where pots, knives and plates can be dropped and may cause damage to the floor. But the problem with the Great Room is there isn't a good way to transition between the two areas.
I still think flooring is cheaper outside... and if you're not worried about the toilet thing, you can always just do carpet in the foyer+powder and then do a nicer hard surface after close of escrow. It's cheaper to rip out carpet than it is to demo builder spec tile.
usctrojancpa
Well-known member
[quote author="irvinehomeowner"]The only thing I would be worried about is the transition from wood to tile. In most model homes they don't use a T-bar so it looks better -- but in most home installations... I've seen the T-bar and that doesn't even address what BK mentioned about different thicknesses.
I can understand wanting to do wood throughout... but I am always hesitant to put real wood in wet areas like the kitchen... especially where pots, knives and plates can be dropped and may cause damage to the floor. But the problem with the Great Room is there isn't a good way to transition between the two areas.
I still think flooring is cheaper outside... and if you're not worried about the toilet thing, you can always just do carpet in the foyer+powder and then do a nicer hard surface after close of escrow. It's cheaper to rip out carpet than it is to demo builder spec tile.[/quote]
Screw that T-bat crap, a good installer will know how to level out the difference between the tile and wood flooring. My dad would play around using spacers and/or extra glue or mortar so the height was perfectly even. Ceramic tile flooring is about 3/8" thick while engineer wood flooring is 7/16"-9/16" and natural stone tiles are about 11/16"-3/4".
I can understand wanting to do wood throughout... but I am always hesitant to put real wood in wet areas like the kitchen... especially where pots, knives and plates can be dropped and may cause damage to the floor. But the problem with the Great Room is there isn't a good way to transition between the two areas.
I still think flooring is cheaper outside... and if you're not worried about the toilet thing, you can always just do carpet in the foyer+powder and then do a nicer hard surface after close of escrow. It's cheaper to rip out carpet than it is to demo builder spec tile.[/quote]
Screw that T-bat crap, a good installer will know how to level out the difference between the tile and wood flooring. My dad would play around using spacers and/or extra glue or mortar so the height was perfectly even. Ceramic tile flooring is about 3/8" thick while engineer wood flooring is 7/16"-9/16" and natural stone tiles are about 11/16"-3/4".
graceomalley
New member
[quote author="new2irvine"]I can't believe I actually agree with BK on this one. I also think going with the builder is the wisest choice even if you get ripped off a few bucks (obv if the $$ difference is huge, then that's a different story). Besides the warranty and the transition issues, you also have to deal with contractors. If you go with the wrong guy, it's headache after headache in terms of cost/timing/quality. If your builder effs it up, you can tell them to rip it out and re-do it. With a contractor? That's going to be a hassle.
Also, re: the question/comments about closing without a "finished" floor. I've also heard that. Some people get linoleum or cheap carpet throughout that they'll have their contractor rip out post closing. In some cases, you will get a credit from the builder for using cheaper materials than their "standard". I've walked through a few new constructions that haven't closed yet but the options have been put in. I hate to say this, but from the handful that I observed, all the white people went through the builder and all the asians went with contractors.[/quote]
Asians like to eat out but they are cheap with the tips. White people on the average are better tipper in affluent places.
Also, re: the question/comments about closing without a "finished" floor. I've also heard that. Some people get linoleum or cheap carpet throughout that they'll have their contractor rip out post closing. In some cases, you will get a credit from the builder for using cheaper materials than their "standard". I've walked through a few new constructions that haven't closed yet but the options have been put in. I hate to say this, but from the handful that I observed, all the white people went through the builder and all the asians went with contractors.[/quote]
Asians like to eat out but they are cheap with the tips. White people on the average are better tipper in affluent places.
[quote author="graceomalley"]
Asians like to eat out but they are cheap with the tips. White people on the average are better tipper in affluent places.[/quote]
Maybe we should start a Tip thread to see what people usually leave. Personally I usually leave at least 15%, but that's based off the Sub-Total or Pre-tax. My wife on the other hand likes to tip on-top of the tax.
Asians like to eat out but they are cheap with the tips. White people on the average are better tipper in affluent places.[/quote]
Maybe we should start a Tip thread to see what people usually leave. Personally I usually leave at least 15%, but that's based off the Sub-Total or Pre-tax. My wife on the other hand likes to tip on-top of the tax.
irvinehomeowner
Well-known member
[quote author="cantaloop"]
Maybe we should start a Tip thread to see what people usually leave. Personally I usually leave at least 15%, but that's based off the Sub-Total or Pre-tax. My wife on the other hand likes to tip on-top of the tax.
[/quote]
If the service is good, 20% or more on the whole bill (tax included). I use 20% because it's easier to calculate.
If the service is not so good, 15-20% on the before tax bill (I just double the tax and round up or down based on service).
Most times, 20% is usually only about a dollar or two more than 15% anyways unless we are eating somewhere hoity.
Maybe we should start a Tip thread to see what people usually leave. Personally I usually leave at least 15%, but that's based off the Sub-Total or Pre-tax. My wife on the other hand likes to tip on-top of the tax.
[/quote]
If the service is good, 20% or more on the whole bill (tax included). I use 20% because it's easier to calculate.
If the service is not so good, 15-20% on the before tax bill (I just double the tax and round up or down based on service).
Most times, 20% is usually only about a dollar or two more than 15% anyways unless we are eating somewhere hoity.
leaky toilets? wat is all this ridiculous nonsense? I changed my toilets out not too long ago, and I can't see the big deal. Personally I haven't had a toilet leak from the seal in my whole life. Sooo... the suggestion is to pay 2-3x the cost for flooring to make sure that it's covered under warranty? That my friends, is some DAMN expensive insurance... Even if your toilets leak, floors get damaged... you are not out a HUGE dollar amount. you have a deck overhanging Malibu canyon and you dont have a large umbrella policy, that's a different story...
there are plenty of reputable contractors out there, I've gotten to know some over the years, and they have earned my business for years to come... at the end of the day, the housing design center is one of the WORST deals ever. Do you REALLY want to pay 1.05% on your upgrades for the rest of your life? Install $30K in upgrades that an extra $315K per year. Doesn't sound like a lot, but hey it's still money.
there are plenty of reputable contractors out there, I've gotten to know some over the years, and they have earned my business for years to come... at the end of the day, the housing design center is one of the WORST deals ever. Do you REALLY want to pay 1.05% on your upgrades for the rest of your life? Install $30K in upgrades that an extra $315K per year. Doesn't sound like a lot, but hey it's still money.
scubasteve
Active member
[quote author="akim997"]leaky toilets? wat is all this ridiculous nonsense? I changed my toilets out not too long ago, and I can't see the big deal. Personally I haven't had a toilet leak from the seal in my whole life. Sooo... the suggestion is to pay 2-3x the cost for flooring to make sure that it's covered under warranty? That my friends, is some DAMN expensive insurance... Even if your toilets leak, floors get damaged... you are not out a HUGE dollar amount. you have a deck overhanging Malibu canyon and you dont have a large umbrella policy, that's a different story...
there are plenty of reputable contractors out there, I've gotten to know some over the years, and they have earned my business for years to come... at the end of the day, the housing design center is one of the WORST deals ever. Do you REALLY want to pay 1.05% on your upgrades for the rest of your life? Install $30K in upgrades that an extra $315K per year. Doesn't sound like a lot, but hey it's still money.
[/quote]
what if you plan on staying there less than 8.75 years??? =D
there are plenty of reputable contractors out there, I've gotten to know some over the years, and they have earned my business for years to come... at the end of the day, the housing design center is one of the WORST deals ever. Do you REALLY want to pay 1.05% on your upgrades for the rest of your life? Install $30K in upgrades that an extra $315K per year. Doesn't sound like a lot, but hey it's still money.
[/quote]
what if you plan on staying there less than 8.75 years??? =D
yafooligan
New member
You should also consider the 8k tax credit. If your upgrades plus the price of your home is greater than 800k, you lose the credit. The Montecitos are all in the upper 700k range so it would be easy to go over.
escrowbear
New member
[quote author="ajw522"]Per the Montecito disclosures, if you decide to use your own contractor for flooring, you will not get a credit from Brookfield for not using the standard flooring. <!-- s
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Will they install vinyl instead of the standard to make it easier for the outside contractors to install hardwood? (vs. tile etc.)
--<!-- s -->[/quote]Will they install vinyl instead of the standard to make it easier for the outside contractors to install hardwood? (vs. tile etc.)
graceomalley
New member
What I see what people do to their home interior finishes is a huge disconnection to the exterior.
Some are to the extreme with Travertine, mahogany cabinets, exotic wood flooring, and top of the line everything like homes I often see in Bel Air.
I can only describe this shocking experience by this example: Some Bellagio hotel like movie set inside an industrial warehouse or a fancy double wide trailer sales office with a luxury interior.
Some are to the extreme with Travertine, mahogany cabinets, exotic wood flooring, and top of the line everything like homes I often see in Bel Air.
I can only describe this shocking experience by this example: Some Bellagio hotel like movie set inside an industrial warehouse or a fancy double wide trailer sales office with a luxury interior.
It's the lemmings that we have become... we have apartments in downtown LA that we rent out. Not the greatest of neighborhoods, and the rent is cheap. Yet, you'd be surprised out how many prospective renters there are who say "I want granite countertops, stainless appliances, and hardwood floors..." Really? C'mon... it's $1300 for a 2BR apt... These are the same people leasing a BMW 328i or a MB C300 because it's a cheap way to drive the bottom end of the luxury lines... (I'm not saying leasing is a bad thing, but it is if it's the only way you can afford the car you want). We all feed our own inadequacies by false materials wants and needs. Further, alot of the upgrades done in the past 3 years were financed by HELOCs in excess of what the house was even worth.
It's so easy to fool these people... We use laminate flooring that we get a $.90/ ft, use pre-fab granite that you can get a $229 for a 8foot slab, and veneered particle board cabinets. If you use the white cabinetry, you can get away with matching white appliances because it remains visually appealin. People then come in and say "wooooow.. it's so NICE in here!!!"....
It's so easy to fool these people... We use laminate flooring that we get a $.90/ ft, use pre-fab granite that you can get a $229 for a 8foot slab, and veneered particle board cabinets. If you use the white cabinetry, you can get away with matching white appliances because it remains visually appealin. People then come in and say "wooooow.. it's so NICE in here!!!"....