Grid Panels
- Thread starter ZeroLot
- Start date
NEW -> Contingent Buyer Assistance Program
Seriously, I have remodeled my kitchen, installed my own master closet, done every single bit of maintenance, repair and upgrade on the 2 homes I have owned. I'm not an Irvinite, so these are older homes that need some lovin from time to time. I have put thousands of screws into wall studs. I will not buy into the statement that a wood stud is getting the better of a metal drill bit. A knot in the wood is significantly harder to drill into, yes, but they are very rare...I would say less than 5% of the time.
Some contractors will put protective plates on a stud over wiring or plumbing lines. They are not required, as the lines are centered on the stud. I believe the hole can be 7/8" dia max, leaving over 1" of allowable screw depth, which is plenty. If this is the case, then the row of studs will have the same plate at the same height. Go up or down a few inches and try drilling there.
It would take me longer to gather the stuff I would need from my garage than it would to install these things.
The Black & Decker PD600 Pivot Plus 6-Volt Nicad Cordless Screwdriver with Articulating Head:
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-PD600-Screwdriver-Articulating/dp/B0000C6DXE/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1407617728&sr=8-21&keywords=black+and+decker+drill
I wanted a light drill so I can use it too.
I would install this thing exactly as you did Qwerty, except I'm guessing my tools would make it easier for me. Magnetic stud finder for a quick find, 18V (or 20V, if I'm in the house) Dewalt drill for the pilot hole to pin 1 corner, a dedicated Dewalt driver to sink the 1st screw, a "good" laser level on a tripod to get it level, and then drive all the other screws home.
I suspect the drill bits being used are dull. They are consumables, like razor blades and driver bits. Most people buy the coated drill bits because they are cheap. For wood drilling I do too, but I buy in bulk. Once the coating is worn off, they're done. The metal substrate will not hold an edge and isn't worth sharpening. For this reason I don't buy the quick change bits; extra cost for something I'll throw away and replace. I keep sets like these on hand to keep my job site sets fresh and full:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_562307-67702-115209_4294613704__?productId=50138360&AID=10935405&PID=404255&cm_mmc=AFF_CJ-_-404255-_-403658-_-10935405
A 6V drill is not very powerful. One of my 3 Dewalt drills is 12V (garage sale lot), and I won't even bother with it. When I got my first cordless set, my wife wanted a small cordless drill too, so I got her her own 7.2V, but we both quickly wised up on our respective competitive advantages with regard to labor output. E.g., she's not very good at carpentry, so lets me do it. I can't stand painting, so I let her do it.
For driving screws, I can't say enough about this thing:
It'll knock the lug nuts off a 1/2 ton pickup and I have driven 3/8" lag bolts 3" deep into the framing with it when building my balcony. I used to rely on the "driver" function of my drill/driver before buying these, but there's just no comparison.
our drill is a ryobi 12V, perhaps that is the problem. my wife actually bought since she thinks she is handier than i am. while im not very handy im definitely handier than her. but letting think she is handier has gotten me out of assembling various things since she will do it
ill have to look at that dewalt drill
Guess I was wrong. Mr. Z needs better tools. Duh.ZeroLot said:
Seriously, I have remodeled my kitchen, installed my own master closet, done every single bit of maintenance, repair and upgrade on the 2 homes I have owned. I'm not an Irvinite, so these are older homes that need some lovin from time to time. I have put thousands of screws into wall studs. I will not buy into the statement that a wood stud is getting the better of a metal drill bit. A knot in the wood is significantly harder to drill into, yes, but they are very rare...I would say less than 5% of the time.
Some contractors will put protective plates on a stud over wiring or plumbing lines. They are not required, as the lines are centered on the stud. I believe the hole can be 7/8" dia max, leaving over 1" of allowable screw depth, which is plenty. If this is the case, then the row of studs will have the same plate at the same height. Go up or down a few inches and try drilling there.
It would take me longer to gather the stuff I would need from my garage than it would to install these things.
ZeroLot
New member
ps9 said:
The Black & Decker PD600 Pivot Plus 6-Volt Nicad Cordless Screwdriver with Articulating Head:
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-PD600-Screwdriver-Articulating/dp/B0000C6DXE/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1407617728&sr=8-21&keywords=black+and+decker+drill
I wanted a light drill so I can use it too.
irvinehomeowner
Well-known member
So what are daedelus' hourly rates?
Not at all. I wasn't being polite about getting better tools. Any job I've found to be either impossible or unduly difficult usually has a tool that makes it much easier. Not saying there's no skill involved, because there often is, but a better tool gives an immediate bump in quality and/or productivity.qwerty said:
I would install this thing exactly as you did Qwerty, except I'm guessing my tools would make it easier for me. Magnetic stud finder for a quick find, 18V (or 20V, if I'm in the house) Dewalt drill for the pilot hole to pin 1 corner, a dedicated Dewalt driver to sink the 1st screw, a "good" laser level on a tripod to get it level, and then drive all the other screws home.
I suspect the drill bits being used are dull. They are consumables, like razor blades and driver bits. Most people buy the coated drill bits because they are cheap. For wood drilling I do too, but I buy in bulk. Once the coating is worn off, they're done. The metal substrate will not hold an edge and isn't worth sharpening. For this reason I don't buy the quick change bits; extra cost for something I'll throw away and replace. I keep sets like these on hand to keep my job site sets fresh and full:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_562307-67702-115209_4294613704__?productId=50138360&AID=10935405&PID=404255&cm_mmc=AFF_CJ-_-404255-_-403658-_-10935405
ZeroLot said:
A 6V drill is not very powerful. One of my 3 Dewalt drills is 12V (garage sale lot), and I won't even bother with it. When I got my first cordless set, my wife wanted a small cordless drill too, so I got her her own 7.2V, but we both quickly wised up on our respective competitive advantages with regard to labor output. E.g., she's not very good at carpentry, so lets me do it. I can't stand painting, so I let her do it.
For driving screws, I can't say enough about this thing:
It'll knock the lug nuts off a 1/2 ton pickup and I have driven 3/8" lag bolts 3" deep into the framing with it when building my balcony. I used to rely on the "driver" function of my drill/driver before buying these, but there's just no comparison.
qwerty
Well-known member
daedalus said:
our drill is a ryobi 12V, perhaps that is the problem. my wife actually bought since she thinks she is handier than i am. while im not very handy im definitely handier than her. but letting think she is handier has gotten me out of assembling various things since she will do it
ill have to look at that dewalt drill