Deck Storage Box for Emergency Food and Water

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momopi

Well-known member
Deck Storage Boxes for Emergency Supplies (food, water, and other necessities)

The 5.1 earthquake in March (2014) served as a reminder to Southern California residents that we live in an earthquake zone.  Many of us have prepared emergency supplies, but what happens if our homes are damaged and inaccessible?  If your home is in danger of collapsing, I?d not recommend risking life and injury for a box of instant noodles in your kitchen.  It's your civic duty to prepare for emergencies, instead of waiting for a handout from FEMA.

I store two month's supply of emergency food and water around the house, but came the realization that they may not be accessible after a major earthquake.  With that in mind, I decided to purchase a couple deck storage boxes and place them in the backyard, away from the house.  The deck storage boxes would be used to store 5 gallon buckets of food and supplies, plus gallon water bottles and tent to survive in the backyard for couple of weeks.  In the event that I had to bug out in my car, I can easily transport the buckets into my car trunk.

Please note that this is my first attempt at storing emergency supplies outside.  My method is not the cheapest or most efficient.  I choose the deck storage boxes because they make nice bench seating with cushion in the yard, so I can sit and watch my eggplants and cucumbers grow.  Also, the supplies are specific to Southern California's climate, where light tent and light emergency sleeping bag is sufficient.  If you live in an area with more extreme temperatures, you'd need to adjust accordingly.

Why 5 gallon buckets?  The buckets are inexpensive, water-proof, and easy to carry with handle.  If you had to camp in your backyard after an earthquake, you can put the buckets in your tent for security, or empty the contents and draw water from your HOA pool.  If you had to bug out, you can haul the buckets into your car trunk quickly.  Non-food grade bucket with lid at Lowes or Home Depot cost $4; versus food grade buckets with lid is $6 (use food grade if you store food/water directly inside bucket).  The buckets are also good for washing, and use as emergency toilet with bucket toilet seat ($10-$20) and kitchen trash bags.

I have a supply of Mountain House #10 cans of freeze-dried foods and Costco gallon water bottles ($4 for 6-pack) at home, so I planned for each deck storage box to contain 10 days worth of food and water for one person.  A common mistake people make is that they assume one serving of freeze-dried food makes a meal, and half to one gallon of water per person per day is sufficient.  In reality, each cup of freeze-dried food is 200-240 calories, and require 1 cup of water to cook.  So you should plan to consume 6 servings (1200-1440 calories) per day, plus extra water for cooking.

Each #10 can of freeze-dried food contains approx. 10 servings, so for 10 days I'd need 6 servings per day * 10 days = 60 servings, or six #10 cans.  60 servings of freeze-dried food will require 60 cups of water to cook, which is 60 cups divided by 16 cups per gallon = 3.75 gallons.  I plan for 1 gallon per day for drinking and washing, so we need 10 gallons for 10 days plus 3.75 gallons for cooking = 14 gallons of water (rounded up).

Each 5 gallon bucket can fit two #10 cans plus room to spare for additional supplies inside.  I'd need three 5 gallon buckets to store six #10 cans, plus 14 gallons of water in one-gallon bottles to go inside the box.  The storage box will also need additional space to fit over-sized items, such as seating cushions and tent.  With this in mind, I ran around the local hardware store with 5 gallon buckets and tape ruler in hand, before realizing that the storage box dimensions are printed on the box.  LoL.

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After measuring numerous deck boxes are Lowes and Home Depot, I decided to purchase two Suncast DBW7500 73-gallon deck box for $100 each.  Similar models are also available on Amazon for $80-$85 with free shipping:  DB800B, DB800BW, & DBW7300.  The box will fit three 5 gallon buckets with lid, plus 14 one-gallon water bottles.  There's 6 inches of space on top to store seat cushions and 2-3 person light tent.  There?s still space for shoes, toilet paper, charcoal, pet food, etc.

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Since the deck box is placed outside, the contents are subjected to high/low temperatures in summer and winter.  You should expect reduced shelf life for your emergency food, and water should be replaced annually ? water your plants with the old water and replace with new bottled water.  I did not buy the water storage jerrycans because for the price of one blue jerrycan ($40) I can buy 60 one gallon bottles from Costco.  I already have a stock of Costco gallon water at the house.

In planning for other supplies to fill the buckets with, I divided the supplies into two categories:  inspect/replace annually, and inspect/replace every 5 years.  I put all the "inspect/replace annually" stuff in bucket #1, "inspect/replace every 5 years" in bucket #2, and extra set of cloths + gloves in bucket #3.  I also put a pair of old shoes in a bag in the box.  In an emergency situation, you'd need to rely on your hands and feet, so you should protect them well.

Stuff that you should inspect/replace annually:  water, first aid kit, medicine, charcoal, food seasoning, batteries (if you bought the cheap stuff, Duracells are good for 5-10 years), etc.

Before you run to Walmart or Big 5 to stock up on camping supplies for your stash, look around the house for things that you already have.  This isn't a bug-out bag where weight is critical, so you don't need the ultralight titanium spoon and fork set.  Just put some old utensils in a ziplock bag and throw it in the bucket.  Remember to put a lid on the bucket, and store other items in the box inside a plastic bag if possible.  Weather proofed items will last longer.

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Because the patio deck box is not locked, I'd recommend buying cheap supplies in case of theft.  You can also save money by storing supplies in buckets without the deck box, and buy cheaper food like white rice instead of the more expensive freeze-dried foods.  Remember that what I put in is mostly what I already have around the house, plus whatever cheap stuff I find on sale.  I bought the "Quick Stove" (Cube Stove) with cedar fuel discs, but a charcoal starter with a grate on top will work fine to cook with.

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Lastly, a very important reminder:  DO NOT store firearms and ammunition in the deck box!  (They belong in your locked gun safe.)  If your neighbor's kid were to find them and have an accident, it'd be YOUR responsibility.  Even air rifles can cause serious injury and death!  If you must add an air rifle to your stash to hunt doves and rabbits for survival, please use a LOCKED storage box, install a trigger lock, and store your pellets in a separate locked container.  Yes I've read D.M.'s blog post (http://survivalblog.com/pellet_rifle_hunting_by_dm/).  I'll discuss the viability of hunting small game with air rifle in SHTF scenario at later time.


In Part II (when I get around to it), I'll list some of the items that I store, and reasons for choosing them.
 
momopi said:
I store two month's supply of emergency food and water around the house, but came the realization that they may not be accessible after a major earthquake.  With that in mind, I decided to purchase a couple deck storage boxes and place them in the backyard, away from the house. 

I looked at my backyard and came to the realization that there is no where in the yard that is "away from the house"
 
gaogi said:
momopi said:
I store two month's supply of emergency food and water around the house, but came the realization that they may not be accessible after a major earthquake.  With that in mind, I decided to purchase a couple deck storage boxes and place them in the backyard, away from the house. 

I looked at my backyard and came to the realization that there is no where in the yard that is "away from the house"

If you put stuff in the backyard, human nature you will then pile other stuff. As soon as know it, it will be a backyard full of junk. (don't go down that path)
 
Deck Storage Boxes for Emergency Supplies, Part II

In Part I, I described the 3 bucket system:

? Bucket #1:  Two #10 cans of (freeze-dried) food plus items to be replaced annually.
? Bucket #2:  Two #10 cans of food plus items to be inspected or replaced every 5 years.
? Bucket #3:  Two #10 cans of food plus extra set of clothing.

In addition, other items like gallon bottles of water, shoes, tent, tarp, toilet paper, charcoal, bucket toilet seat, kitchen trash bags, etc. are stored inside the deck box.  You should store bottled drinking water even if you live next to a HOA swimming pool.  According to the 2013 CDC report ?Microbes in Pool Filter Backwash as Evidence of the Need for Improved Swimmer Hygiene?, 58% of the pool water they sampled contained fecal matter.

Reminder:  DO NOT run to Walmart, Big 5, Dicks Sporting Goods, or other sporting goods store on a panic buy.  Look around your house first for things that you already have.

Freeze-dried food

My preference for #10 can freeze-dried food is Mountain House brand, with advertised 25+ year shelf life when stored at 75 F (24 C) or below.  When stored in deck box outside, the cans are exposed to summer heat, so I plan to replace them after 10 years.  I also wanted to store them inside 5 gallon buckets with lid to avoid rust.  Don?t forget the can opener!


When choosing freeze-dried food cans, pick the ones that retain flavor and texture better.  Mountain House did a taste test of 30 year old pouches in 2012 (http://www.mountainhouse.com/media/press/MH_TasteGraph.pdf), and the results show that foods like rice and chicken preserved better than those with tomato sauce (lasagna, spaghetti).  In a stressed situation, you probably don?t want to be eating food that tastes terrible.

Mountain House #10 cans are not cheap, but if you keep an eye out for sales, they can be had for up to 50% off during annual clearances of old stock (2-3 years old).  Since these cans have long shelf life, 2-3 years old is not a big deal.  Or, if you want to go even cheaper, you could store white rice.  Remember to store some vitamins & supplements, as emergency food are measured in calories but not nutritional value.

Supplies to replace annually

By keeping supplies to be replaced annually in a single bucket, it?d be easier to track them.  Store the items in Ziploc bags before putting it in the bucket.  Here?s a suggested list:

? First-aid & medical supplies (painkillers, burn cream, etc.) ? buy cheap generic meds and replace them annually.  If the first aid box won?t fit in the bucket, put the contents in a zip lock bag.
? Vitamins & supplements
? Food seasoning bottles ? buy the cheap all-purpose food seasoning and replace annually.
? Batteries -- replace if you bought the cheap ones.  Better quality Duracell batteries are good for 5-10 year storage and do not need to be replaced annually.
? Water purification tablets ? check expiration date, these have 4 year shelf life.
? Tooth paste ? replace annually.
? Water ? this is actually stored outside of the bucket, but inside the deck box.  Replace annually and use old water to water your plants.
? Charcoal ? this can be stored in a bucket outside in the yard or under your grill.  Replace and use the old ones for your Summer BBQ.

Supplies to inspect & replace as needed every 5 years (remember to use zip lock bags)

? Emergency water filter -- you can find "Life Straw" at Big 5 for $20.
? Tooth brush, floss, soap, disposable razors, nail clipper
? Flash light ? I prefer LED flash light over candles, because candles are a fire hazard and cheap tents are not fire resistant.  Buy LED flash lights that use size AA battery or larger.
? Quick Stove (Cube Stove) with cedar fuel disks ? this is a neat little camping stove that can use a variety of fuels, including charcoal.
? Camping mess kit ? buy a cheap set with 2 cup capacity pot.
? Utensils ? find some old ones from your kitchen.
? Water-proof matches, fire starter, magnify glass.
? Cotton balls & small jar of petroleum jelly (for tinder).
? Para cord -- hang dry your cloths, or throw a tarp over it for shade.
? Utility knife, folding knife, nail clipper.
? Multi-tool or cheap tools from your tool box ? remember to include a wrench to shut-off your gas main.
? Emergency blanket, emergency sleeping bag (bivvy).
? Poncho ? when it rains, it pours.
? Fishing kit, if you?re near lakes, rivers, or ocean.  I?ll do a write up on this later.
? Photocopies of important documents ? might want to store these in a small locked container, along with some emergency cash in small bills.
? Books on camping, first aid, and survival ? start with the Boy Scouts guide book.

Extra set of clothing

Imagine if you had to run out of the house during an earthquake in your PJ?s, and you couldn?t go back into the house to retrieve clothing.  Store an extra set of clothing in bucket #3.  This will be a ?tight fit? in the bucket, and you may need to distribute some items to other buckets.  Look in your closet for old cloths.  Here are some suggested items to pack:

? Long-sleeved shirt or sweater
? Underwear & undershirt
? Jeans (not shorts) & belt (if needed)
? Socks
? Gloves ? the inexpensive gardening gloves are fine, and will save you from being burned while handling the camping stove.
? Hat
? Windbreaker jacket ? the travel windbreaker jackets that fold into a small pouch.
? Wash towel
? Shoes (stored in bag outside of bucket, in the deck box)

You should inspect the cloths after 5 years, to make sure that they?d still fit.  During an emergency, you can do your laundry in a bucket and hang-dry with para cord.  If you?re unable to fit your cloths in the bucket, they can be stored in plastic bags in the deck box.  I was able to squeeze all the stuff into the buckets because I had 2 deck boxes (6 buckets).


P.S.

Please keep in mind that the item list here is simply what I had around the house, or found cheap on sale.  Depending on your location and needs, you?d need to customize your supplies to match.  You should also prep a ?car kit? for your car, which I'll discuss in later article.
 
qwerty said:
i think im going to go "shopping" for toiletries in Momo's backyard :-)

...I hope you took note that I packed stuff that's laying around the house, as in, old soap bars under the sink, and old towels.

Some stuff is new, like tooth brush from random hotel abroad.
 
Irvine wild rabbits as emergency food

Imagine a scenario where, after a major natural or man-made disaster, the utilities are cut off, supermarket shelves are empty, gas pumps shut-off, and FEMA is overwhelmed.  The poor conditions at Angels Stadium, over-filled with refugees, makes New Orleans Superdome after Katrina look like Holiday Inn Express.  You haven?t eaten for few days and remembered that your neighbor?s fat Chihuahua would make a nice 4-legged chicken on a spit over fire.

As you peek over the fence into your neighbor?s yard, you find your neighbor dining on his MRE rations, and upon spotting you, he points his AR-15 with laser-sight at your forehead, slowly raising the middle finger from his left hand.  You take the hint and slowly back away from the fence.  Then you remember that Irvine has a large number of wild rabbits, as you reach for your air rifle?


DISCLAIMER

Discharging air guns and hunting small game is illegal in the City of Irvine (Municipal Code Section 4-14-103).  You may be charged with negligent discharge of a firearm by law enforcement.  The SHTF scenario described here is theoretical, where after a major disaster there is no law enforcement and you must hunt wild rabbits to survive.  This post is a critique of Pellet Rifle Hunting article by D.M., and a discussion on the viability of hunting rabbits (and doves and squirrels) with an air rifle.

Adult air rifles are not toys, series injury and death can occur from accidents.  Please visit Daisy and Crosman web site for air gun safety information:http://www.daisy.com/safetyruleshttp://www.crosman.com/university/safety/guidelines


Pellet Rifle as Survival Tool

Back in 2010, Air guns of Arizona blog posted an article titled ?One Man?s take on survival with the Crosman 2100?, citing the blog post ?Pellet Rifle Hunting? by D.M.  Since then many survival blogs have praised the virtues of air rifles, with one author calling it ?the single best addition? to a survival cache.  You can read the articles here, and if you?re unfamiliar with air rifles, please read the Wikipedia article:
http://www.airgunsofarizona.com/blog/2010/09/one-man’s-tale-of-survival-with-the-crosman-2100.htmlhttp://survivalblog.com/pellet_rifle_hunting_by_dm/http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air_gun

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The Crosman 2100 is a .177 caliber multi-stroke pneumatic air rifle, shooting 4.5mm steel BB?s and .177 caliber pellets.  It?s a nice, inexpensive ($60-$65) air rifle that shoots straight.  I got mine for $30 at a local gun show, brand new in a crumpled box.  I like it, but would not recommend as your primary survival air gun, which we?ll discuss in detail.  Tom Gaylord has written an excellent review for the Crosman 2100, with performance and accuracy test results:
http://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2012/01/crosman-2100b-multi-pump-air-rifle-part-1/http://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2012/01/crosman-2100b-multi-pump-air-rifle-part-2/http://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2012/03/crosman-2100b-multi-pump-air-rifle-part-3/http://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2012/07/crosman-2100b-multi-pump-air-rifle-part-4/

In D.M.?s article, he commented on hunting with the Crosman 2100:

??birds @50 yards, rabbits cleanly @30 yards, turkey?s @25 yards with head shot and 10 pumps, raccoons and skunks @10 yards with 10 pumps and head shot, squirrels cleanly @25 yards with head shot...?

?In my ammo tests, BBs were my preferred ammo due to cost and availability. With BBs I can shoot a 1? group @25 yards, but that is with shooting on a daily basis. Pellets only give me more accuracy at longer ranges say @50 yards and have much better penetration which is required on bigger stuff. My preferred pellets are Beeman Crow Magnums, they hit really hard and I have bagged several Jackrabbits with 50 yard head shots?.


In my opinion, the Crosman 2100 is under-powered for small game hunting, and steel BB?s lack accuracy & power over distance.  Per Tom Gaylord?s review, the BB?s shot 2.2? groups at 22 feet (7.3 yards).  The 5.1 grain BB is also too light weight to retain energy at distance.  To kill small game humanly, you need 1? group accuracy and at last 5 FPE (foot pound energy) for cottontail rabbits.  To better understand this, please read ?Field Use of Air Gun? by Robert Beeman, and refer to Crosman?s chart below:
http://www.beemans.net/field use.htmhttp://www.crosman.com/pdf/CrosmanAirgunPelletCapabilitiesChart20120713.pdf

Advertised specs vs real life specs

Air gun manufacturers advertise their air rifle performance in fps, or feet per second (speed of the pellet or BB in muzzle velocity).  This figure is often fudged with lightweight pellets, which are not ideal for hunting.  In a simplistic example, if I threw a golf ball and the #9 ball from a pool table at you, the #9 ball is going to hurt a lot more.  Heavier pellets will fly slower but retain energy better over distance, which is needed to take down small game.

For air rifles, energy is calculated in FPE (foot pound energy) or joules, with the muzzle energy measured when the projectile exits the muzzle:http://www.pyramydair.com/article/What_is_Muzzle_Energy_August_2003/5

As the pellet (or BB) travels in range, it will continue to lose energy until impact.  According to Robert Beeman?s article, a 7.8 grain .177 pellet shot at 680 FPS will yield 8 FPE muzzle velocity, dropping to:
? 6 FPE @ 10 yards
? 4 FPE @ 30 yards
? 2 FPE @ 50 yards

From the data above, we can deduce 5 FPE @ 20 yards and 3 FPE @ 40 yards.  At 50 yards, the pellet will only retain 25% of its muzzle energy.
Crosman advertised the 2100 at 755 FPS with BB?s and 725 FPS with pellets, leading some reviewers to claim 9.2 FPE with pellets (at 10 pumps).  In Tom Gaylord?s review, he found that with 7.9 grain pellet:
? @ 5 pumps, average 540 FPS = 5.12 FPE
? @ 10 pumps, average 630 FPS = 6.96 FPE

Using heavier pellets may increase muzzle energy a little.  With the lightweight 5.1 grain steel BB we only get 5.21 FPE muzzle energy:
? @ 5 pumps, average 570 FPS = 3.68 FPE
? @ 10 pumps, average 678 FPE  = 5.21 FPE

According to Beeman?s article, the approximate lethal area for squirrel, pigeon, and rabbit is 1? (head shot).  The minimum energy required for head shot kills is 3 FPE for squirrels and pigeons, and 5 FPE for rabbits.  I?m going to disagree with the squirrel FPE requirement as they?re pretty tough with the fur coat, and you?ll need even more power for double-lung (chest) shots.

D.M. claims that he can kill squirrels cleanly at 25 yards with head shot.  This is possible if you can hit the back of the squirrel?s head or the neck.  If you?re capable of smacking a squirrel in the brain at 25 yards with BB?s, you don?t need to read this post.  For the rest of us, the amount of energy remaining at 25 yards with a BB is just insufficient for consistent clean kills.  Birds at 5 yards are probably OK if you can hit them in the head.

You might read people posting about how they killed squirrels and rabbits with their 5-6 FPE air rifles, but the reality is that they only mention the successes, and we?ll never know how many of the ?misses? were actually wounding hits.  A wounded animal will escape back to its den, and suffer a painful death from wound infection because of YOU.  If you?re going to hunt the rabbit or squirrel for food, you should at least use a more powerful air rifle (12 FPE or better) to ensure a clean kill.

Better alternatives to the Crosman 2100

A real firearm, such as a .22LR caliber rifle or a shotgun, will be much more powerful than most air guns.  However if you must hunt with an air rifle, I?d suggest a .22 caliber break-barrel (spring pistons or nitro piston).  The bigger and heavier pellet will deliver superior knock-down power to the .177 pellet.  Prices start at about $100-$120 for the Crosman Optimus with Center Point 4x32 scope.  This air rifle will deliver 15-16 FPE at the muzzle.

The down-side to .22 caliber air rifle is that, the ballistic performance is not as ?flat? in trajectory, and the ammunition is harder to find.  At most sporting goods store that carry air rifles, you?d only find 4.5mm BB?s and .177 pellets.  Few retail stores carry .22 pellets, they?re more expensive and the selection is inferior to the .177.  However, in a SHTF scenario, the local Walmart or Big-5 won?t be open anyway.  So you should just buy a few tins and stock up.

In D.M.?s article, he commented that he prefers the multi-pump pneumatic, because he wouldn?t know how to service a break-barrel air rifle in the field.  While this is true because you wouldn?t have a spring compressor ?in the field?, how often do break-barrel air rifles need to be repaired?  He also mentioned using the Crosman 2100 butt stock for storage, which is actually a single piece of molded plastic with fake butt pads and screw.  Not sure how they accessed the storage space inside.

If you must use a multi-pump pneumatic, then I?d suggest the Benjamin 392 ($143-$170).  The 392 is like a heavy duty cousin to the 2100, made of wood and metal.  The advertised performance is 14.9 FPE, but in reality it?s more like 12 FPE, the minimum that I?d recommend for hunting squirrels and rabbits within 15 yards.

Other considerations

My Crosman 2100 came with a cheap 4x15 scope, which is OK during day time outdoors, but fuzzy indoors due to insufficient light.  A larger and higher quality scope will allow you to see the target better.  However, considering that rabbits prefer to come out at dawn or dusk, and during SHTF scenario there wouldn?t be street lights (no electricity), you need to think about how you?d ?see? the rabbit.  This is why D.M. suggested the Bushnell TRS25 scope with illuminated sight in his article.

Squirrels in Los Angeles have been known to carry the plague (?black death?), and rabbits may carry tularemia (rabbit fever).  Under normal circumstance, you can go to the emergency room and get a shot of antibiotics.  But in SHTF situation, you really need to protect yourself with gloves, inspect the rabbit liver carefully, and cook the meat thoroughly.  Please do additional research on this subject.

As mentioned in the beginning of this post, you also need to be aware of other ARMED people who are under stress.  Hunting rabbits on the HOA lawn may seem innocent enough for you, but how will someone else perceive you roaming around with a gun in hand?  They may not be able to tell if your gun is an air rifle or a firearm.

Lastly, this is an ?armchair hunter? article.  I?m not going to take my under-powered Crosman 2100 to hunt small game, just to test my theory and see how many are one-shot kills, versus wounding shots.  I?d reach for my Benjamin 392 before I?d reach for the Crosman 2100.
 
If I may add...

It is very important to learn how to field dress your kills. Sadly, most people in O.C. would use that air rifle then have no clue what to do with the squirrel or rabbit when the time came. Learn ahead of time so the meat won't taste bad or, worse, you get sick and die. For example, removing the musk glands and hunting without panicking the animal, running their adrenalin, so you have a less gamey taste. It also can't hurt to experiment with recipes. Vintage cookbooks, especially Amish (German), Southern, and Midwestern, will have recipes for squirrel and rabbit. Sometimes a simple can of Cream of Mushroom soup is all that's needed and since it's already canned, it's easy to store.

Also, why not learn how to use the pelts so as not to waste the animal. Plenty of instruction is available online.
 
06/2016:  Many of the suggestions in my original post needs to be updated.  I will write a follow up later when time is avail.
 
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