Suggestions on Educational Resources for Finance & Investments

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<p>In my persuit of someday becoming a homeowner, I plan on spending a lot of time over the next few years educating myself about the real estate market, personal finance, and investing. It will help keep me motivated if I can continue to learn about the underpinnings of what's really going on out there in the real world, instead of passing time like Milton in a cubical staring at my red stapler hoping to get a window office. When the time is right, I want to know it, and how to act.</p>

<p>I'd like your input on the resources that you use, both online and offline, to education yourself on a continual basis. What magazines, websites, and other publications do you read to give you unbiased, informative reports about market conditions and why things are the way they are? </p>

<p>In addition, what resources did you take advantage of to get you to where you are today? What paid dividends?</p>

<p>Although my personal knowledge of these subjects is limited, I can attribute most of my success in personal finances to my family--who freely discusses economics and finances with me--and to learning from past mistakes. Today I maintain negligible debit, have excellent credit, and save as much as I can. But I know there's much, much more for me to learn, to get to the level where I want to be, and I'm hungry for knowledge.</p>

<p> </p>
 
<p><a target="_blank" href="http://calculatedrisk.blogspot.com/">http://calculatedrisk.blogspot.com/</a></p>

<p><a target="_blank" href="http://globaleconomicanalysis.blogspot.com/">http://globaleconomicanalysis.blogspot.com/</a></p>

<p><a target="_blank" href="http://bigpicture.typepad.com/comments/">http://bigpicture.typepad.com/comments/</a></p>
 
Economist magazine is a great resource in general. I also found that my knowledge in Time Value of Money, Discounted Cash Flows, and CAPM in general have been helpful, so it might be worthwhile to catch up on those concepts from financial websites (money central, marketwatch, etc.) or wikipedia. Taking a class or two at the local CC should help also, although I have no experience in that. A great way to keep on top of things once you become somewhat aware is to just google it when you come across a term that you don't understand. For example, a few months ago I just became curious about VUL insurance so just googled it. I found out everything I wanted to know about that piece of s*%$ product.
 
<p>I have done corporate financial analysis for about 18 years. Often, that involves investment analysis and real options. I've also done a lot of analysis on my personal finances, and those of my friends. I could go on and on about financial principals and particular suggestions. However, one of my core financial observations is how powerful having the combination of good credit and no debt is. More precisely, have some credit that you pay off every month. If you have a student loan that's modest, that's ok. Keep 1-3 credit cards on automatic payment, and never let them have a standing balance. Pay something like your utility bill automatically with a credit card, and then have the credit card automatically paid via your checking account. This is economically the same as paying the utility bill from the checking account, but is much better for your FICO score. </p>

<p>If you don't have debt, the difference in how much you can save or spend gets to be quite large, and it happens pretty fast. </p>

<p>I have some observations about who NOT to get investment advice from: 1. Realtors. They have no specific training requirement in economics, nor do they appear to have anything resembling the "know your customer" rules that your stockbroker has to follow. 2. Anyone who wants to loan you money. 3. Jewelers. "This diamond is an investment..." If you mean something which can be sold in the future for a profit, it's quite a bit worse than housing, which is itself inferior to the stock market. 4. People who don't have any of their own money in the same type of investment.</p>

<p>Academic authors are usually much more thorough and less biased than people in the finance industry. Try doing searches about financial topics in Google Scholar, which restricts the results to scholarly and academic publications. <a href="http://scholar.google.com/schhp?tab=ws">http://scholar.google.com/schhp?tab=ws</a> </p>

<p>Don't get me wrong. The professional requirements for being a stockbroker are light years ahead of a realtor. They might not even be in the same universe. Stockbrokers and investment advisors have appropriateness and disclosure requriements, and pretty thorough background checks. Still, they want to transact business, and typical incentives are either to get more assets under management, more new assets (as distinguished from just getting good returns on what is already invested with them), or to generate more trading activity. It is very hard to find advisors or strategies which consistently beat market returns, once you adjust for transaction costs. Buy and hold for equities is a pretty good baseline strategy, and you don't need to know that much to do it. If something doesn't have long term returns of about 8% or more (like the equity markets) ask yourself why you would invest in it. Sometimes there are good reasons, like you need some liquidity in a money market fund or checking account, or shorterm loss of value could cause you real problems. </p>

<p>If you view a house as partly consumption and partly investment, you can see why it's good to buy something you like, but also why getting a bigger house than you need for "investment" reasons is usually a bad idea. You will probably not only pay more for it, but also furnish it, heat it, cool it, pay taxes on it, and pay higher insurance. The long term returns aren't as good as the stock market, you have poor liquidity in a house, and homes are not diversified investments.</p>

<p>As IrvineRenter and countless others have shown, this isn't a good time to buy a house. When the market is somewhere around bottom, and aftertax costs of homeownership are similar to rent, you should still ask yourself "Do I really like this house I'm looking to buy?" and "Am I buying something much bigger than what I really need?" Depending on interest rates, saving $100k on a house will give you about $500-600 a month aftertax to do something else with, every month. That's about the same as getting a $10,000 a year raise. </p>

<p>This actually gives me an alternative way viewing the current overpriced market. Instead of "you would need a raise of $xxx to be able to afford the median priced home" you could also say "waiting for prices to drop to levels consistent with historic fundamentals is equivalent to getting a raise of $YY". For example, if OC housing prices dropped $150,000, it would be the equivalent of giving the buyers a $12-15,000 raise in salary. For anyone who wants the calculation: after taxes and insurance, at 7% interest, $150,000 translates to ~$750 monthly. $750*12=$9,000 annually. At a 30% tax rate, that's equivalent to a $12,876 raise. At a 40% combined state and federal rate, that's a $15,022 raise.</p>
 
MalibuRenter,





Thanks for the info. I develop high-tech marketing tools for realtors at my current job as a software engineer so I am acutely aware of the lack of financial intelligence (and intelligence in general) of realtors. I generally trust the advice of those are already financially successful/stable and don't have self-interest in the advice they're giving.





You mentioned the equity market. I'm actually considering entering the stock market with a portion of my down payment fund. It might be a while until prices come down to levels where I can buy so, if I can capitalize on my savings with long-term stocks (1+ yrs), thats less I have to loan when the time comes. Of course, if the market takes a down turn, its that much longer until I can save up my full down payment! Right now I'm playing it safe and keeping my down in an ING savings account paying 4.5%. Better than WaMu's .00000005%
 
<p>Priced_out_IT_Guy:</p>

<p>Long term stocks is more like 5 - 10 years not 1 year. Playing it safe would be to put downpayment the money in a savings account of a regulated bank/savings and loan. Somewhere you can stay in line and get your money in case of trouble.</p>

<p>Lockheed Federal credit union has a Market Maximizer account for min of $25K @ 4.71% APR</p>

<p><a href="http://www.lockheedfcu.org/Rates/Savings_Rates/">http://www.lockheedfcu.org/Rates/Savings_Rates/</a></p>

<p>Any one can join by being a member of the Achievers club for one time fee of $5.</p>

<p> <a href="http://www.achieversclub.org/">http://www.achieversclub.org/</a></p>

<p>Current market conditions are very volatile. </p>

<p> </p>
 
several banks offer higher interest rates for online-only savings accounts. WaMu offers 5.00%, but it has to be linked to a WaMu free checking account. $300 minimum to avoid the $4/mo fee for the savings. They also offer a 5.00% 6-mo CD. Several other banks offer something around 5% - ING, Emigrant, etc. - worth looking around. about a month ago i saw a few offering around 6%, but usually with high minimums or for a limited period.
 
<p>Heck, Countrywide is offering 5.5% on $10k minimum balances. Of course when they go under it may take a while for the FDIC to process your claim. </p>

<p><a href="https://bank.countrywide.com/landing/sl2.aspx?src=YHSLA001D001&tier=10000">https://bank.countrywide.com/landing/sl2.aspx?src=YHSLA001D001&tier=10000</a></p>

<p>GMAC @ 5.3%: </p>

<p><a href="http://www.gmacbank.com/index.do?engine=google&keyword=gmac">http://www.gmacbank.com/index.do?engine=google&keyword=gmac</a></p>

<p> </p>
 
MalibuRenter, I'll second you on the Credit Cards, I bought a small suv to carry Bikes in June, I got a fairly decent finance rate but they told me I didn't have enough credit and to go out and get some more Credit Cards...so I did, I don't buy "things" with them, just groceries, Gas and pay restaurant Bills with them and then go online and pay them off as I go, like you said, it's the same as the money coming straight out of my account...but is it possible to have TOO many credit cards?



For IT_guy, I've been considering going back to school just because, I haven't been back since my last 5 year stint years ago, so last week I signed up at Irvine College and I'm going to "Major" in real estate...it's really funny because a lot of Realtors are going in the opposite direction trying to get "Real" jobs...
 
<p>So what happens when banks go belly up? if FDIC insured, depositors are covered up to around 100K, right? I was too young to pay much attention to the S&L crisis...</p>
 
<p><em>but is it possible to have TOO many credit cards?</em></p>

<p>Peter, I think so, but you'd be amazed at just how many it takes to impact your credit score. The more important threats are opening too many revolving accounts in a short period of time and also lowering your average age of accounts. </p>
 
slacker kate - If the account is FDIC insured, yes. If you have any concern, you need to check with your bank and see if your account is insured.
 
Hasn't it been mentioned before, that if too many banks go belly up the FDIC doesn't have nearly enough to cover those "insured" losses ?
 
<em>"Hasn't it been mentioned before, that if too many banks go belly up the FDIC doesn't have nearly enough to cover those "insured" losses ?"</em>





That is why they have a printing press.





After the S&L crisis in the late 80s early 90s, the government had to come up with a lot of money to meet its insured obligations. It was a classic governmental bailout which was necessary because the government was the insurer. Basically, they will come up with the money if they need it.
 
Can't we just get Lloyd's of London to do it ? They insure everything else ! <a href="http://www.lloyds.com/">Lloyd's of London </a>
 
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